John Duerden discovers heritage and antiquity go hand in hand with modernity and innovation in South Korea’s capital
09.00: After breakfast, head to the Gyeongbokgung Palace. The headquarters of the Joseon Dynasty was originally built in 1395, but has been destroyed a number of times during wars with neighbouring Japan. It was here Japanese assassins killed Empress Myeongseong – who is something of a national heroine after her efforts to keep Korea independent – in 1895, to pave the way for colonisation in 1910. Seoul recently witnessed significant damage to one of its major heritage sites – the Great South Gate – which was badly burned in an arson attack in February.
10.30: Head out of Gyeongbokgung’s main gate, turn left and walk for five minutes to the top of Insa-Dong, an art and antiques district where you can buy everything from top-of-the-range vases to Kim Jong-il alarm clocks. Take your time wandering down, try some of the street food and explore the tiny alleyways with their atmospheric traditional teashops.
11.30: As you emerge into the hustle of downtown Seoul, take a few minutes to watch the old men playing janggi, a game similar to chess, in the park and then keep going until you reach the Cheonggyecheon. This creek was built over in the 1950s as Seoul hurtled towards industrialisation. It was restored in 2005 by mayor Lee Myung-bak and remains a monument to the ‘can-do’ attitude that earned him the presidency in February.
Turn right and join the couples on a pleasant stroll surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers and glass towers, emerging at Gwanghwamun, a landmark gate at the centre of the city. Look for the imposing statue of war hero Admiral Lee Sun-shin, who was victorious against the Japanese in the 1590s, in the middle of a busy 12-lane street. It is an iconic Seoul image.
12.00: On your left in the basement of the Seoul Finance Center is Yongsusan restaurant. It is a favourite of the city’s lunchtime hordes and serves a delectable traditional Korean set meal – dishes of soup, vegetables, fish, meat and dessert are brought to the table in turn.
13.00: Take a taxi or the subway to Samgakji, and the War Memorial of Korea. Technically, South Korea is still at war with North Korea – the Korean War (1950-53) ended in armed truce rather than a peace agreement – and Seoul changed hands a number of times during the three years of fighting, being severely damaged in the process. The relationship with the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), from which it is separated by the Korean Demilitarized Zone, has shaped modern Seoul and the museum here is a fascinating place to find out more.
Huge, stark, imposing and situated in the middle of the city, the building is next to a major US military base. There are enough aircraft, tanks and guns, some from North Korea and China, on display outside to distract from the interesting and interactive exhibits inside. If your time is limited, you should choose your era wisely
15.00: Return to your hotel to change then head back out to catch the afternoon showing of…
16.00: Nanta. Spend 90 minutes watching the dancin’, drummin’ and cookin’ show that is Nanta, one of Korea’s most successful exports (www.nanta.co.kr). It is impossible not to get caught up in the energy of the kitchen capers, though do not sit too close unless you want to be showered with ingredients.
18.00: All that cooking is bound to create an appetite. Take a 10-minute subway ride on line 5 to the island of Yeoido, home to Korea’s television stations, National Assembly and stock market. The gleaming 63 building, imaginatively named for the number of floors it has, is the tallest in Seoul and offers delights both in the sky and underground. Before dinner, head to the top for the view over the bustling city, a sight that’s especially impressive if you catch the sun setting over the Yellow Sea. There is also an aquarium. Speaking of fish, Pavilion in the basement is a great place for fresh sushi. It is known all over Seoul and you can help yourself to over 400 dishes – Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Western – for $60 a head.
21.00: From Yeoido, take the ferry to the up-market southeast of the city. The 45-minute Han River trip bisects the city from east to west.
22.00: Take a taxi to trendy Cheongdam-Dong. Soccer superstar David Beckham was seen dancing the night away at nightclub Circle recently. If it is good enough for the former England captain, then it is probably good enough for you – though it could be slightly tougher to get in. Alamy
